
Fall Garlic and Bulb Tips and Tricks!
- Laura Moses
- Oct 7
- 5 min read
Timing, Tricks & How to Outsmart the Squirrels

If your gardening gloves are still hanging by the door and your boots are dusted in compost, chances are you're not ready to give up on the season just yet. Good. Because fall isn’t just about raking leaves—it’s prime time for garlic and bulb planting in Ontario.
Whether you're dreaming of homegrown garlic next summer or tulips erupting like confetti in the spring, here's everything you need to know: the best planting times, squirrel sabotage solutions, and what NOT to put in your soil.

🧄 When to Plant Garlic in Ontario
Let’s get right to it: Thanksgiving weekend is my go-to planting window. It’s late enough that the warm fall rains have slowed down, and early enough that the ground hasn’t gone full permafrost.

But here's the truth: you can plant garlic any time in the fall when the ground is workable. I’ve planted garlic and bulbs when I had to literally break a crust of frozen soil. Picture me cracking through three inches of frost like the top of a crème brûlée, popping bulbs into the soft earth beneath—and guess what? They still came up strong and beautiful the following year.
The real issue is planting too early. Garlic planted when the soil is still warm and wet may sprout prematurely, setting it up for a bad time once winter hits. Early sprouts mean early stress, and stressed-out garlic doesn't store well—or taste great.
🟢 That said, don’t panic if your garlic does sprout in the fall. It’s totally normal. The green shoots will often die back during the winter and then regrow beautifully come spring. There is absolutely nothing to be concerned about. This happens all the time.
💡 Pro tip: Choose healthy, Canadian-grown garlic heads, break them into cloves (but don't peel them), and plant with the pointy end up, 2–3 inches deep and 6 inches apart.
🌷 Can You Still Plant Spring Bulbs in October?
Absolutely—October is one of the BEST months to plant spring-flowering bulbs. This is their moment. You’re not behind schedule; you’re right on cue.
Think tulips, daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, snowdrops, allium, fritillaria... They all require a chilling period (called vernalization) to bloom properly. That means they want to be in the cold, underground, dreaming of spring.
Don’t panic if you haven’t gotten to it by mid-October. As long as you can dig, you can plant. I’ve planted bulbs well into November, even in a light snowfall. The key is to get them in before the ground freezes solid.
⛏️ Depth matters:
Tulips and daffodils: 6–8 inches deep
Crocuses: 3–4 inches
Hyacinths: 4–6 inches
Spacing should be roughly 2–3 times the height of the bulb apart.
🐿️ How to Keep Squirrels from Digging Up Bulbs
Let’s talk about the garden menace with the cute tail—squirrels. They love to dig. And they really love tulip bulbs. Sweet, juicy, nutrient-dense tulips basically ring the dinner bell for them.
But not all bulbs are squirrel candy:
Bulbs They Leave Alone:
Garlic
Daffodils
Fritillaria
Hyacinths
Some Iris varieties

Bulbs They Devour:
Tulips
Crocuses
Some Alliums
Squirrels don’t eat them out of spite—they're simply tuned in to the sweet scent of tulips and crocuses, even under several inches of soil. The good news? You can beat them at their own game.
🛠️ The Chicken Wire Trick
If you’ve been planting bulbs one at a time, we need to have a little talk.

Tulips in particular should never be planted as singles. Not only are they vulnerable to being dug up when isolated, they also look... meh. A single tulip says “I forgot to finish the job.” A cluster of 25+ tulips? That says impact.
Here’s my foolproof method:
1. Dig a large hole—big enough to hold all your bulbs for a grouping.
2. Place the bulbs root-down, tip-up. Let them touch or be just an inch or two apart.
3. Lay a cut piece of chicken wire over the top of the bulbs. Trim it to the size of the hole.
4. Backfill with soil. Water well.
The foliage will grow up right through the wire come spring, but squirrels won’t be able to reach the bulbs. No more sad little craters in your flower beds.
⚠️ Bone Meal & Blood Meal: Think Twice
Let’s clear something up about old-school bulb planting advice: bone meal is not your friend.
Bone meal is a by-product of the slaughter industry, touted for its phosphorus content. But here’s the catch: that phosphorus level is so high that it burns the root tips of young bulbs. Sure, it might stimulate root branching—but at the cost of tissue death. That’s not a win.

And blood meal? Same deal. It’s industrially processed, often smells like death, and while it might deter some pests, it can also attract others.
If you're going to use blood, go natural. Like actual blood from chickens if you raise your own. It breaks down naturally, adds nitrogen, and isn’t as disruptive to the soil biome.
🌿 The best fertilizer? Good, aged compost. That’s all your bulbs need to thrive.
🌼 What Happens After They Bloom?
Don’t forget: planting is just one part of the bulb journey. If you’re wondering what to do after your tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths put on their spring show, check out our guide:
It covers everything from deadheading to feeding to when (and if) to dig them up.
🛠️ Related Services We Offer
Need help with cleanup before or after planting?
🪴 Thinking ahead to 2025? Browse our Maintenance & Design Services for customized landscapes, perennial planning, and seasonal support.
🗓️ Planning for Next Year? Now’s the Time.
If you’re considering a larger garden project or redesign for next year, winter is the perfect time to start planning. Giving yourself time over the colder months allows us to work through ideas, iron out the details, and make sure everything is lined up for install once the ground thaws.
Early planning = better design, smoother scheduling, and more time to get creative.
Whether you're squeezing in one last planting session before the snow flies or just tossing garlic cloves between your perennials, you’re setting the stage for a beautiful spring.
Now go dig something. 🌱
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Or come get your hands dirty with us at a workshop this season.
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